
"The conditions for Salmon to be able to return into this river are that they must encounter a spring tide in conjunction
with river flood conditions, in this image both requirements are almost fulfilled, thus the
fish can soon probably go over the shingle bank and proceed to enter the system"
When thinking of Salmon fishing in general, it is all to easy to
imagine happy days wading down a scenic beat on a Scottish river with a
mighty 15ft Speycasting rod, a full floating line maybe topped of with
6ft of sink tip, with a nice ghillies hut located
just down the way, and maybe an angling friend or two wading down
through the run behind you, and when fishing some
of our rivers I find that anglers that are seemingly lost in these visions and
are using the exact same tackle set up as if they were fishing the Spey
in September. This always puzzles me as the angler working his way
along the high banks of such a small river, wielding a 15ft rod,
overhead casting about 15ft of line
cannot be fishing effectively, and more importantly without good water
craft. The sight from a long way off of an angler approaching with a
huge rod, splashing down his line and fly, letting it swing
momentarily, then ripping it back off into a back cast will generally
see the Salmon temporarily fleeing for cover. Given the width of the
river, the actual amount of time the the fly is effectively fishing
will be reduced to a minimum too, take into account that this angler
will also be restricted to the area he can fish because he needs
sufficient space to make a back cast, it does make
one wonder why they insist on fishing this way, further to this, on
these rivers I don t buy into arguments that a rod of this length is
needed for line mending, hanging the fly on the dangle somehow better,
or even essential in playing and landing a fish once hooked...

"overkill with a double hander?"
Personally I prefer a good quality 9ft single handed rod rated for
and 8# line and to utilize the ability to really "fish" for a Salmon,
in this regard what i mean is that I have enough line beyond the rod
tip to not only load the rod for making various casts, but to also
really work a fly into and through a pool, trying different speeds,
approach angles and depths. When I see anglers fishing through with a
double hander, the drill is pretty much the same and the actual fishing
process appears to look quite uninteresting "I often think that the fish must think the same".
What I believe to be is the biggest disadvantage of the angler using a
double hander is that the lines that are on the market today are far to
long in the head, even for an 8 or 9# Double Hander, the angler,
although he can pick up quite easily the length of line that will see
his fly into the far bank, and bar of course the fly simply swinging from the far bank to near, the angler has
not any line to really "fish" with once the cast is made, plus the
timing that the swing takes to complete happens all to quickly on such
small fast water.

Considering the pool above in this rather unflattering image taken
during the winter, we can see that on the far bank we have overhanging
trees which touch the water, the pool deepens on the far bank as
the river bares left, and fish can be found just in front of the bend
near the opposite bank and back towards the tail which is out of the
picture.
This image is the typical problematic scenario we are faced with when
trying to catch a salmon. Although we can stay low and thanks to a
clear bank we can keep out of the water too, the first obstacle to
overcome
when trying for success in this pool, is one of achieving pinpoint
accuracy and optimum distance from your forward cast. The trees on the
far side do
have gaps in them, just enough to drill a fly into so that the line and
leader can land within a few inches of the far bank, looking to achieve
such accuracy with a double hander would be quite tricky in the absence
of being able to haul the line into a tight loop or cast the loop off
the rod tip at an alternative angle to something other than near
verticle. Looking at the water now, i also feel compelled to write that
this stretch of water fishes better with at least another 6" of water
on, so we would have the extra speed and depth of current to take into
account too, if fish are lying more towards the opposite bank and we
can only fish this side, then we have a matter of seconds to get the
fly underneath the surface and across the fish before the fly is
hanging beneath us. For this job I find that the most adaptable line
for this pool and many others like it is simply a level section of
Tungsten core "T14" made into a shooting head of around 25-27 ft in
length..
This
head made of such construction may raise a few eyebrows, however I
simply cannot find another line which suits the conditions encountered
of which will guarantee the presence of a possible taking fish. In
considering that when a cast is made we obviously do not want the line
and fly to catch up on the branches straight away, it needs to sink
immediately and get under any branches which may protrude slightly
beneath the surface, also the fly needs to be down at least 8"-1ft as
it passes near the fish for them to even show a slight modicum of
interest in it, and it has about all of 3 to 4 seconds in order to get
down to this depth. Given the speed this water runs at when it is at
its best fishing height we need to ensure we are well within what I
have come to know as "the effective fishing zone" for as long as
possible. Anglers who in similar circumstances retort to using fast
sink tips on a floating line are basically reducing this zone to a very
small shallow angled wedge which nears the very end of the cast, the
floating "belly" of line although great for mending and tracking the
progress of the fly etc, simply impedes the rate at which the fly must
sink, and if fish are not lying tucked up on this bank then the whole
process is simply time wasted.
The casting of these heads is an
affair of incorporating a roll cast to raise the head, followed by the
simplest of spey casts, yet made at an angle greater than 60 degrees to
where the fly ended up from the previous cast, also as the loop is
unrolling out we also usually utilize an upstream reach mend which
further bides us essential drag free "sink time". What is also worth
noting is that we can also to some degree get away with an anchor
crossover as we cast, without the tangle up which usually ensues. If I
may elaborate, In aiming the cast just over or even outside of the
anchor point of our set up "D Loop", we can through the use of such a
short head "cheat" the usual principles of casting laws we teach
and make a cast outside of our anchor point, with the head of the line
being well up and out of the way before the fly becomes airborne and
negating the threat of a casting collision. Two more essential traits
of this fantastic head are that we can generally fish all depths within
the pool, by simply altering the angle at which it is cast and the
magnitude of post cast mends we make to bide slack, and finally because
the line is level taper it has the payload to not only turn over big
flies, it also kicks if cast with excess power, this is fantastic for
inducing what we call "Hook casts". If you can imagine a right handed
caster fishing the left bank, and making a spey cast with an angle
change of anywhere between 60 - 80 degrees, whilst utilizing a side arm
delivery, the line tends to continue to hook around after the side on
unrolling loop completely straightens, this simply makes for an extra
upstream mend in the end of the line, and again more essential drag
free "sink time".
When
taking a closer look towards the main pool body and toward the tail, we
can see that the main stem of flow at the surface seemingly juts
through the center of the river and over on the far bank off the bend
we have a slight back eddy, when utilizing the tackle and technique
described above what we will have is a cast that presents a
fly as near to the far bank as possible, and because we have used
a short shooting head we will have delivered some "shooting or running
line" too. The head will have laid onto the water in what appears to be
a nice upstream bowing curve, maybe with a hook into the last few feet,
and we have a fly that will now sink very quickly as it enters the
water. The fast flow running through the center of the river will not
get a hold of the line to the point where it becomes detrimental as the
bow in the line will counteract that, the fly now sinking very quickly
as the heads looks to dredge its way through the swing. Fish which are
laid up will now be faced with a fly that is heading right towards them
from above and the side, at a very steep angle which i feel they
sometimes find very uncomfortable, more so when the tension in the line
increases as we either retrieve slowly or allow the line to become
taught and the fly suddenly changes direction dramatically right in
front of their nose, perfect!.
The square shaped pathway that the
fish normally take when they wish to avoid a lure cast towards them now
suddenly becomes a chase of which the salmons mouth can be seen to be
opening and closing as it homes in on the fly, thankfully we can
further annoy the fish by twitching the line towards us as we have
"shooting line" in hand to fish with, and the take generally comes in
the area where the sink tip angler has just about got his fly to the
right depth..!!
The above method is just one example of just how much
thought can go into "inducing a pull" and this has taken many hours to
perfect on very tricky water, because of this, as just one of many
reasons, I find it more satisfying to fish here than anywhere else.